Galena

The oldest city in northern Illinois, Galena was more populous than Chicago at one time and has the infrastructure for a city three times its current population. It has a compact center of well-preserved 19th-century commercial buildings tucked into a narrow river valley; terraces race up the steep hillsides north and west of downtown, giving the town a feeling of beauty on the edge. Galena survived decades of down economic years before slowly growing into an artist colony and tourist Mecca. Galena, however, has evolved into a town with two distinct personalities: it may be the only town in America where you can spend thousands of dollars on an original piece of art, then walk two doors down and buy a T-shirt that reads “Firemen like it hot and wet.”

Direct your questions to Galena Country Tourism (101 Bouthillier St.; 815.776.9200).

Galena became a town, a very wealthy one at that, because of lead. The success of early mining ventures attracted attention. In 1818, John and Tyler Armstrong arrived from Green Bay and built the first home in what would become Galena. They moved on to Wisconsin after a few months and Francisco Bouthillier, an interpreter for the British at Prairie du Chien, moved into their cabin and set up the first ferry service across the Fever River. A steady flow of settlers soon followed, including Irish, French, and relocated Americans, who would soon be joined by immigrants from Wales. Many of the American settlers came from south-central states like Missouri and Kentucky; they typically stayed only for the summer months, then returned home for the winter.

In 1822 Colonel James Johnson received a lease from the US government to mine around Galena. After negotiating a deal with local Ho Chunk leaders, he was allowed to proceed. His mine flourished, and the following year, the US granted nine more leases. In 1823, 425,000 pounds of ore were shipped down the Fever River; just six years later, that jumped to 13 million pounds. Galena grew in nearly equal proportion, even if folks had a hard time deciding on a name: are we La Pointe, Fever River Diggings, or Bean River Settlement? Stores and taverns opened, including a trading post owned by Frederick Dent, the father-in-law of Ulysses S. Grant.

In 1823, the Virginia was the first steamboat to navigate the Upper Mississippi River and the first of many steamboats to travel up the Fever River. You wouldn’t guess it by what you see today, but the Galena River used to be wider and deep enough (300 feet wide and 15 feet deep—about four feet deeper than the Mississippi at that time) to handle steamboats from the Mississippi.

By 1826, the town had become a bustling trading post populated with miners, gamblers, traders, rivermen, trappers, and other reputable characters. In that year, a certain Doctor Newhall wrote to his brother that “neither law nor Gospel can pass the rapids of the Mississippi.” By the end of the year, residents met to formally name their settlement. After rejecting the names Frederickstown, Jo Daviess, Harrison, and others, they settled on Galena—the Latin word for lead sulphide.

In 1828, the year John Dowling built his house, the number of buildings in town doubled and the population reached 800. In the same year, the burgeoning town experienced its first serious flood, which had an upside when one resident caught a 106-pound catfish. Galena suffered a brief decline from 1829–1832 in part because lead production was cut, intentionally, in an attempt to increase prices and because of uncertainty created by the Black Hawk War. Once hostilities ended, however, the economy once again kicked into high gear. Excitement about the area started to attract a wider range of settlers, many of whom were more interested in farming, and Galena also became a regional hub for grain shipping. By 1840, there were more farmers than miners. Because most goods were shipped via the Mississippi River, Galena had strong ties to St. Louis and New Orleans.

The 1840s were very prosperous years for Galenians, with productive mines, good farming, and a growing city. For the next two decades, Galena was the richest town in Illinois and arguably its most prominent community, producing several future governors and a future US Secretary of State. Galena, which had been organized by an act of the US Congress in 1835, incorporated under Illinois law in 1841 and elected its first mayor. Its population at that time had reached 2,225 and would more than double to 6,000 by 1850.

Lead production peaked in 1845 at 54 million pounds. In just a few years, the US had gone from importing lead from England to the world’s largest exporter of lead; 80% of that lead came from the mines around Galena. By 1854, residents were concerned that the name of the local river, the Fever River, might scare away potential settlers, so they petitioned the state legislature to call it the Galena River; the legislature agreed.

Signs of trouble were beginning to appear, however. Years of clear-cutting hillsides for mining and farming had sped soil erosion, sending tons of silt into the Galena River and making navigation increasingly difficult. Mining was also in decline, as remaining deposits were deeper and more expensive to extract. Further complicating matters, Galena was bypassed by the railroads in the 1850s. Galena had become an important trading outpost, with large warehouses and trade connections to Eastern cities. This commerce helped offset the decreasing production from lead mining, as did a burgeoning industrial sector, at least until the railroads built elsewhere. When East Dubuque became the terminus for the Illinois Central railroad, much of the shipping business was shifted from Galena. In 1858, Galena’s population peaked at 14,000; four years later, on the eve of Civil War, it had fallen to 10,000.

Galena was deeply affected by the Civil War. Nine men with ties to Galena served as generals in the Union Army. One of the generals, Ulysses S. Grant, was a recent transplant. Grant was a West Point graduate and 15-year Army veteran. After he retired, he tried a number of private sector jobs and failed at all of them. He and his family arrived in Galena in 1860, where he began work as a clerk in his father’s tannery business. He lived in town for just one year before Fort Sumter was attacked and the Civil War began. Grant quickly became involved with organizing and training local recruits, but his eyes were on a more prominent position in the Union Army. His initial attempts to contact the War Department went unanswered, so he entered service as Adjutant General of Illinois, where he organized state troops and was commissioned Colonel of the 21st Infantry Regiment before President Lincoln hired him to lead the Union forces.

As men abandoned their normal trades to enlist in the Army, Galena transformed from regional commercial hub into a center for recruiting and equipping volunteers. Several Galenians became high-ranking military officers, including Major General John Rawlins (Grant’s Chief of Staff). Grant returned to Galena in August 1865 to a cheering crowd of 10,000. Galenians presented him a new, fully furnished home as a token of thanks. He was elected President of the US just three years later. The Grants returned to Galena in 1879 after a world tour, again to an enthusiastic crowd, and lived in Galena until 1881. U.S. Grant died in New York City on July 25, 1885.

By 1870, the value of farm products had surpassed lead production but the overall economic trend was downward. The decline sent property values plummeting: the city’s total assessment went from $1,500,000 in 1857 to $450,000 just ten years later.

Galena’s economic decline is perhaps the main reason that the downtown core has remained intact: they didn’t have the money to tear down the buildings and experiment with urban renewal. That nearly changed in 1970 when city leaders, based upon the recommendations of outside consultants, proposed a plan to demolish 22 buildings and replace them with parking lots and strip malls. The plan triggered a revolt and Galenians voted down the plan 80% to 20%. In short order, the process of renovating downtown buildings began. The key event may have been the collapse of one wall of the Coatsworth Building (the building that once housed the leather goods store where US Grant worked). Mayor Enisweiler turned back efforts to demolish the building, instead seeing it as the anchor that could kick-start rehab efforts for the whole district. It worked. In 1978, the DeSoto House Hotel got money for an overhaul and the momentum was rolling. You can see the results as you walk down Main Street today.

TIP: Galena can get crazy busy, especially on weekends, so parking can be a challenge. Most spots along Main Street and adjacent streets have a three hour maximum, and the city reliably polices those spots. If you go longer than three hours, don’t complain if you get a ticket. Most of the lots in those areas also charge a fee. On the other hand, the parking lots around the depot on the east side of the Galena River and around US Highway 20 are free all day. If you’re planning on sticking around for a while, check there first. Otherwise, patience, persistence, and the willingness to walk are indispensable

I suggest beginning at the former residence of President Grant, which is now the Ulysses S. Grant Home State Historic Site (500 Bouthillier St.; 815.777.0248). The interior has been maintained in the style in which the Grants lived in 1881 and has some impressive period pieces, although they are not original to the house.

The Washburne House (908 Third St.; 815.777.9406) was completed in 1845 as a single-story Greek Revival home then enlarged 16 years later. The home’s namesake, Elihu Washburne, was a lawyer, politician, and friend of Grant. The future president was sitting in the library of this house in 1868 when he learned that he had won.

Nothing is subtle about the Belvedere Mansion (1008 Park Ave.; 815.777.0747). Built in 1857 by Russell Jones, a future ambassador to Belgium, this Italianate house was his home for barely four years. When he moved away from Galena, he took his possessions and stripped the house to the rafters. Recent owners showered love on the house and open it for public daily tours from April to November. The house is furnished with an exquisite collection of antiques, including chairs from the movie Marie Antoinette, furniture once owned by Liberace, and green curtains from the movie Gone with the Wind (no, not those curtains).

Grant Park (Park Ave.) is across the Galena River from downtown and offers good views and plenty of shade for a picnic. It was created in 1891 to honor the former President. The park has several antique cannons, including one that was part of the Confederate battery that started the Civil War by firing on Fort Sumter in 1861.

From Grant Park, take the pedestrian bridge across the Galena River to the main business district. This section includes four churches; if you want to go inside them, you should call each in advance as they are usually locked.

Browse the work of local artists at Hello Galena (121 N. Commerce St.; 815.777.1448) and take home a little something to brighten your day.

You can watch demonstrations of a craft that once seemed on the verge of disappearing (but can now be found at just about any historical park) at the Old Blacksmith Shop (245 Commerce St.; 815.777.9131). Kidding aside, the blacksmiths are skilled and worth watching, and you can purchase their hand-made iron products in the gift store.

Frontier priest Father Samuel Mazzuchelli designed the brick Church of St. Mary (406 Franklin St.; 815.777.2053) for a growing congregation of German parishioners. He also delivered a sermon at the first mass in December 1860. The high altar and the painting of the Assumption (just above it) were completed in 1878. The entire church has been through a series of renovations in the past 25 years and is in excellent condition.

Gothic Grace Episcopal Church (107 S. Prospect St.; 815.777.2590)was completed in 1849 from limestone quarried on-site. Belgian art glass windows illuminate the interior, and the oldest pipe organ in the Upper Midwest—donated to the church in 1838 by the widow of Alexander Hamilton (the first US Secretary of the Treasury)—fills it with joy. Hamilton’s son, Colonel William S. Hamilton, worked the mines around Galena from the early 1820s to 1849. The impressive choir stalls and altar are walnut.

The Romanesque Revival First Methodist Church (125 S. Bench; 815.777.0192) was dedicated in 1857 and was once the home church for the Grant family. Their pew is still marked. The church has a dozen art glass windows that date to the church’s construction (and were restored in 1980s) and a Moline Pipe Organ from 1880.

The Galena & US Grant Museum (211 S. Bench St.; 815.777.9129) hosts two floors of exhibits about Galena’s history. The exhibits about lead mining and Galena’s Civil War history are especially interesting.

The first St. Michael Catholic Church (227 S. Bench St.; 815.777.2053) was completed in 1842 for the astronomical sum of $14,000 but was destroyed by fire just 14 years later. Father Mazzuchelli designed the new church. Construction started in 1856, but troubles with financing delayed completion until 1863. At 135 feet long and 60 feet wide, this is the largest church designed by Father Mazzuchelli and is arguably his finest building. In order to eliminate the need for columns inside the spacious nave, Father Mazzuchelli designed a special truss to support the roof, an innovation well ahead of its time. The interior has been through several renovations, most recently in the late 1980s. Call ahead if you want to tour the interior.

If you feel up to a good climb, take the Green Street stairs uphill (just south of St. Michael), then go left and walk to Linmar Gardens (504 S. Prospect St., 815.777.1177) where you can tour the three acres of waterfalls, church ruins, and architectural salvage cleverly hidden in a densely landscaped hillside above town.

Photographer Geoffrey Mikol has a gift for capturing special images of the places in and around Galena. Stop in to River Bend Gallery (300 S. Main St.; 815.281.9199) to see for yourself.

The last stretch takes you along Main Street. Don’t rush. Take time to explore the shops, grab a bite to eat or snack on a pastry, and check out the following places.

Preserving the history of the Old Stockade (208 Perry St.) has been a labor of love. The building was constructed as a warehouse around 1828 in the French post-on-sill style in which logs were placed vertically on the foundation instead of horizontally. Inside the building, you will see cutaways showing the interior construction and displays of local history.

Dowling House (220 Diagonal St.; 815.777.1250) is the oldest extant house in Galena, dating to 1826. After sitting empty for 50 years, an architect from Chicago purchased the property in the 1950s and used it as a country retreat. It has since been restored to resemble a country trading post on the first floor (with some fun antique tools) and a 19th-century residence on the second floor. Guided tours only. You can buy a combo ticket with Belvedere Mansion and save a few bucks.

The Galena River Bike Trail runs eight miles (one-way) across a flat, crushed-rock trail, mostly shaded, that is great for biking in summer and cross-country skiing in winter. The trail begins at Depot Park (91 Bouthillier St.).

West Street Sculpture Park (620 S. West St.; 815.777.9591) is the creation of a single artist who works on a large scale. His playful creations have titles such as Eyeful Tower and Leaning Tower of Farming. A map and description of the pieces is available from a kiosk on-site.

Galena Center for the Arts (971 Gear St.; 779.214.0261) showcases artists who work in a variety of media with special exhibitions and a retail store.

Buehler Preserve (102 Jefferson St.; 815.858.9100) is an 18-acre preserve along the south bank of the Galena River and just east of the Meeker Street footbridge. This is a good spot for an easy hike with good bird-spotting.

Adventure Creek Alpaca Farm (Galena Log Cabin Getaway, 9401 W. Hart John Rd.; 815.777.4200) has a free open house on Saturdays (all year) where you can gawk at or, for a modest fee, walk an alpaca. They also have a retail store open on weekends where you can buy alpaca yarn made on premises.

Just four miles from Galena, the 85 acres of Caspar Bluff (870 Pilot Knob Rd.; 815.858.9100) rise above the Mississippi River floodplain. The site has 51 Native American burial mounds, and even though many aren’t visible, the most dramatic—a bird effigy—is a short walk from the parking lot and is fairly easy to discern; it’s at the southern end of the preserve. From Galena, follow US 20 to Blackjack Road, then veer right on Pilot Knob Rd. The park is about 2½ miles on the right.

On the other side of town, Galena Gateway Park (9300 Powder House Hill Rd.; 815.858.9011) offers 180 acres of prairie with great views of Galena.

Horseshoe Mound Preserve (1679 N Blackjack Rd.; 815.858.9011) offers walking trails through upland prairies and woodlands across 200 acres of Driftless Area topography, some of which come with dramatic views.

Located atop a bluff about nine miles southeast of Galena, Chestnut Mountain Resort (8700 W. Chestnut Rd.; 815.777.1230) is a year-round resort destination. In winter, ski and snowboard on your choice of 19 trails that descend 475 feet. In summer, check out the 2500 foot alpine slide, mini-golf, or rent a mountain bike.

Ninety-minute eco-cruises on the Mississippi River depart from the base of the bluff below Chestnut Mountain Resort.

Galena Trolley Tours (314 S. Main St.; 815.777.1248) will take you around town on either a one-hour tour of historic sites or a two-hour tour of historic homes.

Galena Birding (815.777.0621) offers guided birding tours along the Mississippi River and other habitats in the region. Call for tour times and locations.

A town as old as Galena is bound to have its share of characters who refuse to go away. Steve Repp’s All About a Ghost Tour (DeSoto House Hotel, 230 S. Dodge St.; 815.777.9252) will introduce you to some of those characters and other mysteries in Galena’s past while walking around town.

Amelia’s Galena Ghost Tours (129 Main St.; 815.994.2868) also offers several tours into Galena’s mysterious past and present, including a pub crawl and a bus tour.

Mark Twain and the Laughing River (111 N. Main St.; 815.777.8030) is actor Jim Post’s well-regarded musical interpretation of the life of one Samuel Clemens (you might know him as Mark Twain).

The pub at The Irish Cottage Boutique Hotel (9853 US Highway 20 West; 815.776.0707) hosts live music, mostly on weekend nights.

The Galena Farmers’ Market is held on Saturday mornings at the Old Market House Square from May to October (123 N. Commerce St.; 815.777.1838).

The Great Galena Balloon Race (800.690.1287; mid-June) features 20 or more hot air balloons at Eagle Ridge Resort in Galena Territory.

The Country Fair (Grant Park; 815.777.0817; Columbus Day weekend) draws about 20,000 people every year for its well-regarded art and craft vendors. Plan far in advance if you want to stay around Galena for this weekend.

Enjoy a taste of locally made liquors at the Blaum Brothers Distilling Company (9380 W. US Highway 20; 815.777.1000). You can sample beverages on site–like their gin, bourbon, or vodka–before deciding what to take home with you.

Sample locally-produced wine at Galena Cellars Vineyard & Winery (111 N. Main St.; 815.777.3330), then enjoy a glass or two of your favorites in the spacious building.

Miss Kitty’s Grape Escape (242 N. Main St.; 815.214.0003) is a wine and martini bar, so there’s something for everyone.

The Galena Brewing Company (227 N. Main St.; 815.776.9917) is a popular hangout for tourists and residents alike, with several taps of locally-made beer at the ready.

Besides coffee, Kaladi’s Coffee Bar (309 S. Main St.; 815.776.0723) serves panini and gelato to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Galena Roasters Coffee Shop (118 N. Main St.; 815.776.0504) is obsessed with perfecting the roasting process and turning those beans into a great cup of coffee. They do a fine job with both.

Galena has more than its share of fine dining establishments. If you’re on a budget, though, don’t fret. You have options.

In Galena, you can sample sweet treats from around the world. The Galena Bakehouse (421 S. Main St.; 815.402.3308) features sumptuous made-from-scratch cinnamon rolls, cookies, and macarons, as well as savory treats like quiche, empanadas, and Argentine cheesy biscuits known as chipas.

Bread & Vine Bakery (217 S. Main St.; 815.402.2100) dazzles with tartlettes, eclairs, and more macarons, plus they offer sandwiches with an international flair and flat breads that you can pair with a glass of wine or cocktail.

If that’s not enough, La Michoacana Irmanaju (110 S. Main St.; 815.402.2284) specializes in ice cream and Mexican-style sweets.

Gobbie’s Sports Pub & Eatery (219 N. Main St.; 815.777.0243) serves up gigantic sandwiches and awesome pizza with crusts from thin to pan in a sports-bar atmosphere.

Durty Gurt’s Burger Joynt (235 N. Main St.; 815.776.9990) has a fun faux-hillbilly atmosphere and burgers bigger than most men’s heads; you can splurge, if you dare, and get a burger with four half-pound patties layered with cheese and bacon. Go crazy, just don’t complain to me in the morning.

The Galena Brewing Company (227 N. Main St.; 815.776.9917) serves up filling and tasty sandwiches and salads.

Cannova’s (247 N. Main St.; 815.777.3735) is a popular place for Italian comfort foods like pizza and pasta.

The Market House Restaurant (204 Perry St.; 815.777.0690) is best known for its Crab Louis Salad, which is like a creamy, sweet cole slaw with crab. The rest of the menu is a fairly standard collection of sandwiches/burgers, including a few vegetarian options; dinner entrées cover the familiar pasta, steak, and seafood territory. The garden room is a beautiful and relaxing space to eat a meal.

Frank O’Dowd’s Pub (Irish Cottage Boutique Hotel, 9853 US Highway 20 West; 815.776.0707) serves food with a decided Irish influence, albeit a modern one. It is also a fun place to relax with a drink and take in live music.

One of the best spots for a splurge is Fried Green Tomatoes (213 N. Main St.; 815.777.3938), an atmospheric restaurant housed in a restored commercial building that serves classic Italian dishes, steak, and seafood.

Fritz and Frites (317 N. Main St.; 815.777.2004) serves an unlikely mix of German fare like Wiener schnitzel and classic French dishes such as poulet roti. The food is top-notch and the bistro setting comfortable; the menu changes with the seasons.

The Log Cabin Steakhouse (201 N. Main St.; 815.777.0393) is a long-time favorite of Galenians; steak reigns supreme, but they have a host of seafood entrées, as well as entrées with a Greek touch.

Galena may be the boutique accommodations capital of the Mississippi Valley, with a healthy number of bed-and-breakfasts and small inns, although budget accommodations are in short supply. During summer weekends, rooms fill up quickly, so book in advance.

The Inn at Irish Hollow (2800 S. Irish Hollow Rd.; 815.777.6000) is a luxurious option in a bucolic location. The Inn has three spacious rooms accented with seasonal decorations. They also rent five cottages that range from simply elegant to spectacular; some cottages have showers with four showerheads! All units have a private bath and are the epitome of tasteful elegance. The setting is peaceful and isolated, all the better to savor the gourmet meals. Breakfast is up to three courses and guests have the option of partaking in a 7-course dinner. If you are looking for a special splurge, look no further. Check their website for package deals.

The Palace Campground (11357 US Highway 20 West; 815.777.2466) is the only full-service campground in the immediate area; it has nearly 200 campsites on a sprawling site.

In Galena? Are you kidding? You won’t have much luck finding an inexpensive room in summer. Try the Grant Hills Motel (9853 US Highway 20; 877.421.0924)on the outskirts of Galena. All 33 rooms have a refrigerator and some also have a microwave. Guests have use of a common kitchen and dining area, picnic area with grills, and laundry room.

The Palace Campground (11357 US Highway 20 West; 815.777.2466) has five rustic cabins that are like camping but with walls.

Galena Log Cabin Getaway (9401 W. Hart John Rd.; 815.777.4200) is only a few miles outside of Galena but feels hours removed from civilization. The 11 cabins were constructed with 19th-century building techniques but furnished with the 21st century in mind, with amenities such as a microwave, satellite TV, and small refrigerator. The property includes over two miles of hiking trails and a herd of alpacas.

All of these places serve a full breakfast.

Abe’s Spring Street Guest House (414 Spring St.; 773.573.3453) rents two suites in a former ice house decorated with the handiwork of local sculptor and potter Charles Fach, one of the owners. One suite has a bathroom with Jacuzzi tub in a cool former root cellar. Guests have use of a private sauna and hot tub.

The Steamboat House (605 S. Prospect St.; 815.777.2317) offers five antique-rich guest rooms in the house built for another steamboat pilot/lead miner, Daniel Harris, brother of Robert Harris. Check out the period furnishings.

Aldrich House (900 3rd St.; 815.777.3323) occupies one of the first houses converted to a bed-and-breakfast in Galena. In its storied history, the solid brick home has hosted Abraham Lincoln and Ulysses Grant, and you could be next! Rooms are immaculate and tasteful, and emphasize comfort over everything else.

For a special night or two, book a stay at the Jail Hill Inn (319 Meeker St.; 815.534.1906). First-rate service and first-class touches make this property a popular place to stay for a luxury get away. Expect amenities such as soft bedding, a gourmet breakfast, a Bluetooth friendly sound system, and an afternoon wine and cheese plate. It is within walking distance of Main Street.

Alpine-themed Chestnut Mountain Resort (8700 W. Chestnut Rd.; 815.777.1230) is nine miles from Galena atop a ridge with great views of the Mississippi River. The rooms are spacious, comfortable, and many have river views.

The first thing you will notice about the Le Fevre Inn & Resort (9917 W. Deininger Lane; 815.777.3929) is the great panoramic views, which are especially impressive at sunset. Rooms are elegant but comfortable and often a good deal for the area. The property includes five miles of hiking trails and outdoor heated pools and hot tub.

Riverboat Suites (328 Spring St.; 815.657.9442) rents ten rooms, including six suites, in a pair of 1830s buildings; all rooms have a private bath and some have a small refrigerator and microwave.

The DeSoto House Hotel (230 S. Main St.; 815.777.0090) was built as a five-story hotel in 1855 in anticipation of the arrival of the railroad, but demand never lived up to expectations and the top two floors were removed in 1880. The building was completely renovated in the 1980s after years of neglect. The 55 rooms evoke 19th-century style without sacrificing comfort and put you in the middle of Main Street.

The Irish Cottage Inn & Suites (9853 US Highway 20; 815.776.0707) has 75 spacious rooms decorated with Irish County themes in a hotel/entertainment complex that is Ireland on steroids.

The local newspaper is the weekly Galena Gazette (815.777.0019).

Post Office: 110 Green St.; 815.777.0225.

Galena Public Library: 601 S. Bench St.; 815.777.0200.

Heading upriver? Check out East Dubuque.

Heading downriver? Check out Hanover.